Sunday, December 20, 2015

Islas Urcos

The floating Islands of Lake Titicaca. 75 floating islands made of totora reeds floating in the worlds highest lake where hundreds of people live and have been living for thousands of years. How could a tourist not want to see such a thing? 
I now know the answer to that question.
Everything about our tour made me feel uncomfortable. 
For starters, it was all very artificial. Our boat pulled up to the first floating island and handed some money out the window to the islanders as they all simultaneously greeted us in their native tongue. We disembarked on the island of reeds and sat in a circle as we were taught how the islands were made. Undeniably, this was very fascinating but our guide was just barking commands at the islanders and making them speak their native tongue though they were very obviously fluent in Spanish.
The next thing that bothered me was the societal structure that I curiously inquired about. I was talking with the 20 year old president of the small community, Johnathan. He informed us that they usually get married around 14 or 15 years old and those who do not have enough money to go to school stay on the island. I asked his wife who was sitting in the doorstep how old she was and she shyly looked away as her husband spoke for her. She was 18. I asked if he likes tourism and if he thinks it has a positive impact on the island and his response was as if he were programmed to say yes. Of course, without tourism these islands would have no source of income. 
We then were supposed to walk into their houses (also made of totora reeds) and try on their clothes. This felt extremely uncomfortable because it seemed invasive. It all seemed artificial as well because when my friend asked what they do when it rains, they informed us that they just drape some plastic over their roof.
Later, we were asked if we wanted to take the "traditional reed boat" (the pontoons were stuffed with tarps and plastic bottles) to another island. Little did we know, we had to pay and board the boat even if we didn't want to. As we were being towed across the water, the little children all sang songs to us. Our guide, once again, was treating them as though they were monkeys. Raising his arms in the air, conducting them. "Look!" He said, "They can sing in English too! Ladies! Sing! Louder!" 
I had had enough at this point but when the kids finished singing they swarmed us and asked for coins, fighting over each other. In one minute, the cute little children had completely changed and it was terrifying to see such greed in such little beings. To look into the small girl's eyes was heart breaking. The innocence in her pupils stared at my sad eyes; I was completely aware of this little girl's future.
The whole tour was disturbing and I'm still not exactly sure how to feel about it all. On one hand, everything I saw- the exploitative nature of the tour guides and companies, the poverty, the insincere "act", the apparent patriarchy- it all contradicted my personal beliefs and opinions. On the other hand, I feel confused because I am in no position to judge a culture. Who am I to say what is right and what is wrong? 


(This is a photo of a photo but I think it captures the mood well)



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