It's like snowboarding, only different. I walk out into the waves, picking up my heavy legs in the moving water as though I was making a fresh boot track in the powder. I look out to the horizon and a smile reaches across my face as I think of the joy I am about to experience.
Battling against the waves, I trudge out farther and farther into the ocean. Now, we wait. For a moment it is still. I spot a wave about to break and Mario yells to me to catch it. I start to paddle with my tired arms and look back over my right shoulder just as the wave nears my feet. I push up on the board and my feet navigate to a balanced stance. Now I'm here to enjoy the ride. I shift my weight between my legs and practice my turns, remembering what Cedrich told me, "it's just like snowboarding in powder, use your back leg." I get closer to the shore and dive off into the water. Some of the local surfer guys were watching me catch that one and, because I'm the only foreigner and female currently in the water, they pump their fist in the air; they're cheering me on.
It feels good. My knees are sore from continually hitting the waxed board and my ribs have a nice little sore spot where they rest on the board. My hair is tied in knots and my nose stings from ingesting the salt water.
Every once in a while I get tumbled in a big wave. Freely floating through the spinning water, I plug my nose and let the ocean take me for a ride. Eventually the water releases me from its hold and I take a breath of fresh air. The leash cord tugs on my ankle as my board spins up and out of the wave.
It's just like snowboarding. A board under my two feet, floating on the surface of water. It's so much fun.
It's an adrenaline rush.
Here, every day is a powder day.
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